Salvation in Leather?

I read this great article on Slate (sent to me by my friend Jake) about the recent Fall 2007 Anne Klein show in New York. Yes, I know - "Anne Klein?" you're thinking, "Isn't that the basic wardrobe of midwestern secretaries with crispy hair and framed cat pictures on their desks?" Well, yes. However, this season marks the coming out of Isabel Toledo, who was recently appointed creative director and made a name for herself previously with her experimental, not-quite-wearable designs.

The Slate article touts Toledo as ushering in a new era of American sportswear. Their stance is that, while European designers have been showing fantastically creative collections in Paris and Milan, American designers have been lacking in creativity and not doing anything to update the sportswear that made American fashion big in the first place. Until now. And, surprise of surprises, the innovation is coming from Anne Klein .

The garment that embodies this newfound spirit of innovation is the hooded leather stadium coat shown above. It apparently is cut from a huge piece of leather - similar to the way they cut sails. How effing fabulous is that? I just have this picture in my head of little seamstresses in a wearhouse crawling all over this HUGE slab of leather cutting out pieces using complex geometric equations. I want to be buried in this coat. If I could only have one piece of clothing for the rest of my life, I think I would choose this coat (though it might get hot during the summer).

I'm not really sure what I want to say about all this besides the fact that this coat rocks. I'm really surprised that something of this caliber came from Anne Klein which, let's be honest, is just one step above Casual Corner. Even though I think it's safe to say that this coat won't be sold at your everyday Anne Klein store in your everyday suburban strip mall, it's still pretty cool. I would like to see mid-range retailers doing stuff like this. I seriously think that most American fashion has been lacking in creativity lately and this makes me feel a little hopeful.

I was also really surprised to learn about the hey day of Anne Klein. I had no idea that it was so trendy and cool back in the day. I mean, I guess it's not that big of a surprise to me - look at those frumpy Laura Ashley clothes that were HUGE way back when. I'm really glad that Anne Klein is trying to get back to that. I think everyone else should take a cue from them and stop settling for just commercial. I'm all for garments being able to sell, but clothing can be so much more fun! So, kudos to you, Anne Klein. I'm glad to see you moving away from sensible seperates and pleated pantsuits and trying something new!

I Could Buy and Sell You

I’ve been thinking a lot this week about the idea of the model as commodity. It’s been rolling around in my head for a while and I guess it’s kind of an abstract concept to me that I’m trying to wrap my brain around. As someone who works in fashion, I guess a part of me understands that a model is rarely more than a human clothes hanger, but for some reason I see them as these unattainable ideals that I measure myself against.

It all started really when I watched the new VH1 show The Agency early this week. Thanks to the wonder that is Tivo, I was able to indulge my masochistic side and watch it repeatedly. In this week’s episode, there was a male model named Owen who the agents believed could be a superstar if he would only gain weight. Really, this dude was SKINNY. Like “I can see every ligament in your leg” skinny. Apparently, skinny dude are really great in Paris and Milan, but in America we just can’t swallow them as well – we like our guys with a little meat on their bones. First, this came as a huge surprise to me because I generally think of most male fashion models as really friggin’ skinny. Second, what the agents were saying to this guy seemed directly at odds with what they were telling the girls. I guess the moral of this episode was that women should not eat and men should.

Watching this episode made me SUPER angry! I mean, this dude is super hot and they’re telling him to GAIN weight? That’s not necessarily a bad thing if you’re underweight, but I was overcome with jealousy. I mean, I would be the happiest person in the whole world if someone told me that to be hot all I had to do was gain weight. Instead, I feel like I always need to lose like 30 pounds.

My therapist made a really good point in our session, though, and it started me thinking about this whole “commodity” thing. One thing that I had never noticed about that show, because I was fixating on the hotness of the models, was that the people judging the models are not hot. They are able to judge these models as commodities and their ability to sell clothes while not comparing themselves to them in the process. These people’s main concern is the marketability of the total package, not how these people compare to them. I, for some reason,
cannot make this distinction.


Later this week, I saw pictures of the Viktor & Rolf show in Paris. These crazy Dutchmen basically attached these huge metal apparatuses with lights and speakers to their models, effectively making them carry their own lighting and soundtrack with them down the runway. However, when I first saw the pictures, I thought the models were attached to huge clothing racks. To me, this was the perfect representation of this commodification idea I’ve been toying with. Seriously, what better way to highlight the fact that these people are basically clothes hangers than to make them look like they’re wearing clothes that are still hung up!

I think this idea is beginning to sink in. I mean, what are models anyway except people with exceptional genetics who are paid to be beautiful? Why do I feel such a need to live up to them? If models are just commodities, why don’t I feel this same need to live up to the newest iPod or car? Well, because, that would just be silly.

Open Letter to Mid to Low-Range Retailers

Dear H&M, et al,

I must express my frustration to you. As a loyal shopper at your stores for many years (who can resist the allure of moderately priced clothing?), I must let you know that my shopping experiences of late have become increasingly frustrating. Where is the creativity in menswear? Where is the risk, the playfulness, the fun? Menswear does not have to be boring button down shirts and suits in neutral tones. There are more patterns out there than stripes or plaids (I don't care how many varieties of stripes you throw at me...they're still stripes). No matter what you think, "relaxed," "original, and "classic" all just mean baggy!

Seriously, when did you start being such tricksters? You sneaky queens put all the cute, crazy womenswear in the windows and in the front of the stores to lure me in, hoping the menswear will be just as fun. When I walk in, I see color, patterns, even metallics! I see crazy accessories, boldness, variety and risk-taking. My heart sinks, though, when I finally wade through all the fabulousness to the mens section and see boring sweaters and neutral colors that just seem even worse by comparison to the delectable smorgasborg I saw in the front. I mean, honestly, stop making carpenter jeans! You tug at my heart strings each time this happens.

Don't you know that guys need variety too? I know you have to keep your midwestern frat boy and banker in mind when deciding on product, but still...can't we have a bit more to choose from? Colors are important (and there are more colors than blue. Seriously.) and let's see some embellishment. Screen printing graphics and witty sayings on t-shirts can only go so far.

So, in conclusion, I guess I'm just asking to make your menswear a bit more like your womenswear. I'm not saying to try to sell guys dresses, skirts and purses, but to take a few more risks with the garments. You seem to have so much more fun with the women...and I know they are fun to dress, but spread the love. The guys deserve it too!

Love, Your Faithful Clothes Whore,
G